At The Table
by Annabel Rorden

Truly, nothing restores the spirit like a fine glass of wine.
Except, perhaps, that same wine enjoyed with just the right meal. Pairing
wines harmoniously with food will have a synergistic effect on both, creating
a combination that transcends the enjoyment of either one separately. With
the right wine, the flavors of a food will leap out at you, often creating
the sense that you are tasting that dish for the first time. Likewise, the
right foods can bring forward subtle nuances in a wine, leaving you with a
greater understanding of what that wine is all about.
Bringing Chardonnay to the table has always been a bit of a challenge for a chef. Chardonnay can be a very complex wine, with many layers of flavor as well as a rich, creamy texture and full-bodied
weight. These work extremely well when the wine is enjoyed by
itself, but care needs to be taken when food is introduced. Dishes that are
highly seasoned or complex can overwhelm the palate when combined with a Chardonnay,
leaving the mouth overworked and underpaid. This said, I must also emphasize
that pairing a truly great Chardonnay with its' perfect food will make the
angels sing. These few simple rules and guidelines might just make that experience
a reality:
1. Keep it simple. There is a lot going on in a good
bottle of Chardonnay. Try to limit the number of ingredients in your recipe
to 10 or fewer, and the number of herbs and/or spices to 3 or fewer. This
latter group includes onion, garlic, ginger, or any other highly-flavored
bridging ingredient that may not necessarily be classified as an herb or a
spice.
2. Match the body of your dish to the body of the wine.
A barrel-aged Chardonnay will present a richer, weightier offering than one
that never sleeps with oak. Reserve your richest, creamiest recipes for the
former style of wine.
3. Try out your ingredients with the wine before you begin
cooking. A tiny bite of fresh ginger, a sliver of mild and creamy cheese,
a taste of a cooked shiitake mushroom; these are all flavors that can work
with Chardonnay, but may not necessarily connect with the wine you are trying
to serve. Epiphany Foods has published a food and wine pairing chart that
identifies specific ingredients that successfully pair with different wines.
You can purchase this chart from Cantiga Wineworks. When you have identified
the flavors you would like to experiment with, put them all on a big plate
and try them each separately with your wine. You'll be amazed how quickly
you learn what works and what doesn't.
4. Use the wine you are serving to finish your recipes.
Wherever possible, substitute a bit of your Chardonnay for a liquid in your
recipe. Finish your cream sauce with the Chardonnay you are serving or, perhaps,
add the Chardonnay to your poaching liquid.
5. Sugar and spice is nothing nice. Neither sweet nor
spicy dishes work well with Chardonnay, so don't even try. Save them for something
more appropriate (perhaps coffee or beer).
6. Trust yourself. Your palate will be your best friend.
Trust your instincts and go with what you like.
Of course, one of the best ways to ensure a successful dining
experience is to start with a good Chardonnay. Cantiga Wineworks has produced
two distinctly different Chardonnays from the 2000 harvest, both equally deserving
of the dinner table. Their Monterey "Oakless" Chardonnay is a dry,
well balanced, full-bodied offering that marries well with grilled chicken,
rich seafood, and roasted turkey or duck. This wine would be a happy choice
for a traditional holiday turkey dinner.
At Cantiga's grand opening, I paired this wine with, among other
things, an artichoke-saffron aioli. Artichokes are notoriously hard to pair
with wine because they contain an acid called cynarin, which can make
everything taste sweet. I have found greater success in matching foods to
wines when they are both made from products grown in the same region. Monterey,
California is truly the heart of artichoke country, as well as being home
to some of the best Chardonnay grapes available. Knowing this, I bravely forged
ahead with my artichoke aioli, adding a touch of the saffron to introduce
a warm, rich feel that is companionable with a Chardonnay, and to counteract
the effects of the cynarin. The response to this pairing was overwhelmingly
positive, with so many of you asking for the recipe that I have decided to
make this product commercially available. Watch for it in Cantigas tasting
room and on their website! You can enjoy it with a chilled, poached salmon
filet and Cantiga's "Oakless" Chardonnay, and thank you again for
all your wonderful feedback.
Cantiga's Barrel-Aged Chardonnay is another wine I have truly enjoyed at the dinner table. This gold medal winner combines beautifully with any simply-prepared, rich seafood dish, yet is equally happy sharing billing with the earthy flavors and creamy texture of polenta with sautéed shiitake mushrooms and asiago cheese. Without a doubt, my favorite combination with this wine is fresh ginger root. In fact, I like to call this a ginger wine because it harmonizes so perfectly with this highly flavored, exotic root. The following recipe makes use of this natural affinity as well as Chardonnay's compatibility with rich, velvety foods by introducing fresh, seared scallops and a heavenly cream sauce. Enjoy this dish over fettuccine, with a simple spinach salad and a good, crusty sourdough bread.
Seared Scallops with Gingered Cream Sauce
(Serves 4)
1 pound fresh sea (not bay) scallops, drained
4 tbsp unsalted butter
¾ inch fresh ginger piece, peeled and finely minced
1 large clove garlic, crushed
¼ cup Cantiga Wineworks Barrel-Aged Chardonnay
2 cups heavy cream
½ tsp ground sea salt or to taste
freshly ground black pepper to taste
¾ cup grated Parmesan cheese
2 tsp finely chopped fresh parsley
Pat scallops dry with paper towels. Melt 2 tbsp butter in large sauté pan over medium high heat. Add scallops and cook on both sides until just brown, about 3 minutes total. Reduce heat to medium. Remove scallops from heat to a dish and keep them warm (leave butter in pan). Add remaining butter to pan and, when melted, add garlic and ginger. Sauté at medium heat until fragrant, not brown. Quickly add wine to pan. Scrape pan to make sure garlic and ginger are not sticking to the bottom. Add cream and cook until reduced by one fourth. Sauce will be bubbly. Reduce heat to low. Add ½ cup Parmesan cheese and mix until cheese has been incorporated into sauce. Correct salt and pepper. Place scallops back into sauce and let them come to temperature. Remove from heat and add parsley. Serve over fettuccine with remaining parmesan cheese.